The curl type chart is the most-Googled diagram in curl care — but it's also the most misused. Most charts skip the science, ignore wet-vs-dry pattern variation, and never mention that hormonal shifts can move you between types entirely. This is the full UK guide to identifying your curl type, understanding where the system comes from, and choosing products that work for your exact pattern.
The curl type chart at a glance
Nine recognised patterns split across three families:
- Type 1 — Straight. 1A (fine, soft), 1B (medium body), 1C (coarser, more body).
- Type 2 — Waves. 2A (loose S-shape), 2B (defined waves), 2C (waves bordering on curls).
- Type 3 — Curls. 3A (loose ringlets, sidewalk-chalk circumference), 3B (springy ringlets, Sharpie circumference), 3C (tight corkscrews, pencil circumference).
- Type 4 — Coils. 4A (defined coils, crochet-needle circumference), 4B (Z-pattern coils), 4C (tightest coils, dense and compressed).
The system covers wavy through coily — but it's a starting point, not a label. Most heads have 2–3 different patterns across the scalp, and your pattern can shift over your lifetime (more on that below).
Where the curl type system comes from
The chart we use today was developed by Andre Walker, Oprah Winfrey's longtime stylist, in his 1997 book Andre Talks Hair. The original system was Type 1–4 with the A/B/C subcategories added later. It's the most-recognised system in commercial curl care because the major curl brands (DevaCurl, SheaMoisture, Mizani) adopted it for product positioning.
It's not the only system. The LOIS system (developed in the natural-hair community) classifies curl pattern by what shape it resembles — L (bend), O (curl/coil), I (straight), S (wave) — combined with strand thickness and shine. The argument for LOIS is that Andre Walker's system was originally framed with type 4 as "least desirable" (the book itself caused controversy on this point). Many natural-hair experts prefer LOIS for its neutrality. Both systems describe the same heads — just with different labels.
For UK shopping purposes, brands and products are organised by Walker's 2A–4C system, so that's what we'll use here. But if you've ever felt the chart didn't fit you neatly, you're not wrong — it has limitations.
Type 2 — Waves
Type 2 hair forms an S-shape rather than a circular ringlet. It looks straighter when wet and develops its wave as it dries. Type 2 sits between truly straight and truly curly, and almost always benefits from lightweight curl products rather than heavy creams.
2A — Loose waves
Barely-there S-shape, lays flat against the head. Strand circumference roughly that of a sidewalk chalk. Often looks straight when wet, develops a soft wave as it dries. Frizzes easily at the roots, falls limp by lunchtime. Best products: lightweight mousses and sea-salt sprays. Try Curlsmith Weightless Air Dry Cream — formulated specifically for the lightest waves.
2B — Defined waves
Clearer S-shape with defined ends. Frizz at the crown, definition at the ends. Holds curl-defining mousse well. Try The Doux MOUSSE DEF Texture Foam for definition without weighing the wave down.
2C — Wavy curls
Defined S-shape that's almost curly, with bouncy ends. Sometimes called the "type 3 boundary." Tolerates slightly heavier products than 2A/2B. Often misidentified as 3A — the test is whether your pattern forms spirals (3A) or stays as a wavy S (2C).
Type 3 — Curls
Type 3 hair forms ringlets — full circular spirals. Naturally voluminous, prone to frizz, most responsive to layered moisture and curl-defining products.
3A — Loose curls
Loose, springy ringlets the diameter of sidewalk chalk. Pattern bounces when stretched. Most responsive curl type to the LOC (Liquid–Oil–Cream) method.
3B — Springy curls
Tighter ringlets, Sharpie-marker circumference. Denser, bouncier than 3A. Naturally fuller body. Density typically 100,000–150,000 strands, average shrinkage 30%, growth rate ~1cm per month. Try Innersense I Create Curl Memory for definition that holds for days.
3C — Tight curls
Tight corkscrews, pencil-thin circumference, densely packed. Bordering on coily. Significant shrinkage (40–50%) and high need for layered moisture. Try Camille Rose Curl Maker as a holding gel layered over a curl cream.
Type 4 — Coils
Type 4 hair forms the tightest patterns — coils rather than ringlets. The most fragile curl type, with the highest shrinkage (up to 80%) and the most layered moisture requirement.
4A — Coily
Defined S-shaped coils, roughly crochet-needle circumference. Holds curl pattern well when moisturised. Highly prone to dryness — natural scalp oils struggle to travel down the tight curl shape.
4B — Z-pattern coils
Sharp Z-pattern rather than smooth S. Densely packed with angular bends. Up to 75% shrinkage. Holds protective styles beautifully. The LOC method is essential.
4C — Tight coils
Tightest coil pattern, often with no visible curl definition until wet or stretched. Most fragile, highest shrinkage (up to 80%). Cleanse weekly or bi-weekly, deep condition every wash, layer butters and oils.
Wet vs dry curl pattern
Most curl charts only show your pattern when dry. But your hair forms a different shape wet than dry — and most diagnostic mistakes come from comparing your wet hair to a dry-hair chart.
- Type 2 (waves): Looks nearly straight when soaking wet. Wave develops as hair air-dries. The wave is at its peak at 80% dry and softens slightly when fully dry.
- Type 3 (curls): Tightest when wet, loosens 10–15% as it dries. A 3A wet might look like 3B until it dries out and the loop loosens.
- Type 4 (coils): Most defined when wet (and product is in). Shrinkage compresses the visible pattern as hair dries. Wet 4A has a clearer S-shape than dry 4A.
Test your pattern on freshly washed hair, scrunched once with leave-in, and air-dried 80%. That's your "true" pattern.
What if I'm between two types?
Most heads are. The system was designed for averages, not individual heads. It's normal to have:
- Looser pattern at the crown (less weight pulls it down) and tighter at the ends.
- Looser around the face and tighter at the back.
- Different patterns by section due to whorls or growth direction.
If you have multiple patterns, identify the dominant one (where most of your hair sits) and product-shop for that. Then adjust quantity by section — more product on the loosest sections, less on the tightest.
My curl pattern changed — why?
One of the least-discussed truths in curl care: your pattern can genuinely change throughout your life. Stylists and curl specialists see this regularly, but the major chart-publishers rarely cover it. Here's what actually moves your pattern:
Hormonal shifts
Pregnancy, postpartum, menopause, perimenopause, and birth control changes all shift hormone levels — and hormones directly affect the rate at which your hair follicles produce keratin and the shape of the follicle itself. Many women who were 2C/3A pre-pregnancy report tighter 3B/3C postpartum (or vice versa). The change can be temporary or permanent.
Menopause and aging
Sebum production drops in your 40s+, which often loosens the pattern (less weight on the strand). At the same time, follicle shape can change with age — leading some women to develop curl in their 50s when they had straight hair before. Both shifts are well-documented in dermatology research.
Post-COVID
Telogen effluvium (hair shedding) following severe illness, including COVID-19, can result in new growth that has a different texture or curl pattern. This is widely reported clinically and there are peer-reviewed case studies describing post-COVID hair texture changes.
Heat and chemical damage
Repeated heat styling above 160°C denatures keratin permanently — the affected hair won't curl until cut off. Bleach and chemical relaxers permanently break disulphide bonds. If your ends are looser than your roots and you've heat-styled or coloured, that's likely heat/chemical damage rather than a true pattern change.
Medications and stress
Thyroid medication, hormonal contraceptives, chemotherapy, and chronic stress (cortisol spikes) all move the pattern. Documented but underreported.
If your pattern has shifted recently, don't assume your old products will still work. Re-diagnose your current pattern and adjust accordingly.
UK climate impact per curl type
UK humidity averages 70–90% RH year-round. That changes how each type behaves:
- Type 2: Most affected by high humidity — the wave pattern frizzes into halo fluff at the crown. Anti-humidity sprays are non-negotiable in summer.
- Type 3: High humidity adds volume and softens definition. Type 3 in UK summer often looks fluffier than the same head in dry climate. Use anti-humectant gels (polymer-based) under your styler.
- Type 4: Humid air actually helps type 4 — the dew point above 15°C draws water into the hair shaft, supporting moisture-retention. Type 4 routines often need more humectants in winter (when UK indoor heating drops humidity to 30%) and less in summer.
Porosity × curl type matrix
Curl pattern is half the story — porosity is the other half. The same 3B head will respond very differently to the same product depending on porosity.
| Pattern × Porosity | Best routine | Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| 3A low-porosity | Lightweight water-based products, deep condition with heat | Heavy butters, coconut oil |
| 3A high-porosity | Layered moisture, sealing oils, protein weekly | Hot water, sulphates |
| 4A low-porosity | Steam treatments, lightweight leave-ins | Heavy butters that won't penetrate |
| 4C high-porosity | LOC method, weekly protein, heavy butters and sealing oils | Drying alcohols, sulphate cleansers |
For a full porosity test and routine guide, see our hair porosity guide.
Take the 60-second curl-type quiz
Reading a chart is the slow way. The fastest way is our AI Hair Analyser — upload a clear photo of your hair (clean, damp, no product) and it identifies your pattern in 30 seconds with product recommendations matched to your curl type and porosity.
Common mistakes by curl type
- Type 2 mistake: Using heavy curl creams designed for Type 3. They flatten waves into stringy clumps. Stay light.
- Type 3 mistake: Skipping the deep conditioner. Type 3 looks lush even when it's dry — you only see the damage when split ends accumulate.
- Type 4 mistake: Washing too often. Type 4 should typically wash weekly, not 2–3× per week. Over-cleansing strips the moisture coils need.
Find products for your curl type
Browse by curl type:
FAQs
How accurate is the Andre Walker system?
It's a useful starting framework but not definitive. Most heads have 2–3 patterns. Use it to find your dominant pattern, then adjust based on your actual experience.
Can I tell my curl type from a dry photo?
Roughly yes, but the most accurate method is on freshly washed, scrunched, 80% air-dried hair with a leave-in. Dry-hair photos are influenced by sleep marks, product build-up, and humidity.
Why does my hair look like a different curl type at the front vs back?
Totally normal. Different sections have different growth patterns, weight distribution, and exposure to friction. Style each section to its own pattern.
Do men and women have the same curl-type chart?
Yes — the chart is sex-neutral. Hair pattern is determined by follicle shape, not by gender.
Will my curl type change as I age?
Possibly. Hormonal shifts, menopause, and reduced sebum production in the 40s+ commonly loosen patterns. New growth in your 50s+ may have a different texture than your historical pattern.
Author: Emma Rusby, Founder of Zenvy Beauty. UK curl-care specialist with a background in salon trichology.
